Waves are crashing all around me,
The sun is casting its yellow rays upon the island.
I hear a yell but it is oh so distant:
“Go! Go!”
I turn my head to see a wall rapidly approaching.
I thrash my arms and kick,
But it seems too late for me.
I push up onto the board and stand,
Keeping my balance.
The timing is perfect,
I sail onward to the palms in the distance.
I am flying.
No, I am face down in the sand,
Waves lapping at my feet.
For a moment I think I am dead,
But my board slithers up beside me.
I smile and laugh.
I did it.
I surfed.